What a Zipper Size Number Means
The number on a zipper, #3, #5, #8, is its gauge, and it is, to a first approximation, the width in millimetres of the closed teeth. Not the tape the teeth are sewn to, and not the length: just the chain, measured across, once the zipper is shut. A #5 has a chain about 5 mm wide. A #10 is about twice that.
It is a trade label rather than an ISO dimension, so the real width runs slightly either side of the number and differs a little between coil, moulded plastic and metal. Treat the table below as the nominal size each label implies, not a tolerance.
Zipper Size Chart in mm
| Size | Teeth width (nominal) | Character | Typical uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| #3 | 3 mm | Fine and lightweight | Skirts, dresses, pillow covers, pockets |
| #4.5 | 4.5 mm | Mid-light | Trousers, light jackets, cushions |
| #5 | 5 mm | The general-purpose size | Jeans, jackets, bags, hoodies |
| #8 | 7.5 mm | Heavy duty | Heavy coats, sleeping bags, tents, holdalls |
| #10 | 9.5 mm | Heaviest common size | Parkas, luggage, tarps, upholstery |
These are the commonly stocked sizes. Others exist, such as #2 below the range and #6, #7 and #9 between the entries, but they are rarer and are not given a row here. The uses are conventions, not specifications: makers vary, and a heavier chain than the garment needs is often a deliberate design choice.
How to Measure a Zipper Size
Close the zipper so the teeth are interlocked, because an open pair of rows measures wrong. Then measure across the teeth from one outer edge to the other at the widest point of the chain, and ignore the tape. For metal and moulded plastic that is the chain you can see. For a coil zipper it is the width of the visible coil.
If the slider is still on, look at the back of it first. The number is usually stamped there, beside the maker's logo. Measuring is for when the stamp has worn off, the slider is gone, or you are matching tape without a slider at all.
The mismatch that matters
A slider is made for one chain width. One a size too big lets the teeth pop apart behind it, and one a size too small jams or splits the chain. Neighbouring sizes look nearly identical held in the hand, which is exactly why this is worth measuring rather than guessing.
Why a Printed Zipper Size Chart Can Mislead
The standard advice is to print a to-scale chart and lay the zipper on it. That works only if the sheet came out at exactly 100%, and almost nothing prints at exactly 100% by default. Browsers apply "fit to page" or shrink-to-margins scaling, and nothing on the printed page shows that it happened. These sizes are only a millimetre or two apart, so a few percent of shrinkage reads a size low.
Calibrating a screen has the same requirement, but it is done once, visibly, against a thing of known width, and it is obvious when it is wrong. The calibration is shared with the online ruler, the button size chart and the fabric count gauge, so calibrating on one calibrates the rest on that screen.
How much to trust it
The common sizes sit 1.5 to 2.5 mm apart, and a careful bank-card calibration is well inside that, so the answer is usually decisive. The failure mode is browser zoom: calibrate at 100%, and recalibrate if you change it, because zoom rescales the slots and the card outline together and the outline will still look correct. If the teeth land between two slots, type the width in millimetres and settle it against the stamp.